To the uninitiated, buying a computer can soon become a series of headaches – there is so much to consider besides the price. Before you even look at a model, you’ll have to think what you will use your machine for – is it for business, for pleasure, or for home organising? What software will you need? How much disk space will you require? And what about Internet connection and modem speed? The list is endless, which is why we turned to you for help, our computer-savvy Community. This is what you told us…
Operating Systems
So which to choose if you are buying a new computer, and are not already married to one OS? Ask yourself who you will turn to when the computer does not work right (out of friends and family, don’t count the guy who sold you the computer or the technical support number). Buy what that person uses. When it is 11pm and you are desperate to get the thing to work, you don’t want to call your friend and have him or her say ‘I don’t know how to fix Macs’ or ‘I told you not to buy Windows’.
The next consideration is the software that you need to run. Most productivity software has both Macintosh and Windows versions or there are equivalent competing products on the other OS. Many games do not have Macintosh versions, but the most popular ones generally do, and there are some games that do not have Windows versions. However, a few people will have a need to use a specific program that only runs on Mac or only runs on Windows, and you need to consider this if you have something like that.
You may also have industry considerations if you are using the computer for work. Many businesses standardise on Windows, and if you accidentally bring a Mac-formatted disk to work you will be stuck. On the other hand, companies that work in graphic design, advertising, publishing, printing, web design, and other arts are often standardised on the Macintosh.
Macs are not perfect, but they do crash less often, are still easier to use than Windows, and have not been targeted by as many computer viruses (a couple of dozen Mac viruses compared to tens of thousands of Windows viruses over the last 15 years).
Which OS to choose
Well, you basically have three or four different operating systems. Note that this is very important. First off, Macintosh X OS. Macs are quite nice, stable, but only have a small percentage of the software/hardware market and are generally incompatible with PCs.
Linux is an open-source OS (meaning you could download a free copy off the Internet) that is used a lot by programmers, Microsoft haters, and other anarchists. (It’s a joke, come on!) And there are several companies that distribute professional-quality Linux OS (RedHat being the first that comes to mind, and it is a very stable OS). It is worth noting that Linux has a very small share in the software market, though it can use the same hardware as a PC, if there are the correct drivers for it.
Finally, Windows 9x/ME, NT, 2000, and XP. The newest, XP, was just rolled out. It is basically a castrated version of 2000, with a very annoying product-activation scheme, in-your-face tactics to sign up for a Passport account, and a pretty GUI and software that’s not hard to find somewhere else, preferably free. Very stable (as it’s built on the NT kernel) and a memory hog. 2000 (otherwise known as NT 5) is just an upgraded version of NT. Very stable, though there are conflicts with some drivers and software programs. Not a bad choice as you get the same stability as XP.
Software
Any software needed to run your computer (device drivers, operating system, etc) should come with your computer. New computers usually come with some form of virus protection as well, although how long you will receive updates for will depend on the deal you strike.
New computers often come with a ‘bundle’ of software too – a couple of games, a word processing program and spreadsheet are fairly common. You may have to pay extra for this – but it should be cheaper than just buying the software. Look at what software you’ll be getting, and think about how much of it you will use. It’s pointless paying for four programs if you’re only going to use one or two – you may as well just buy those two separately.
‘Specialist’ software, such as music composing/typesetting programs may be harder to find. They probably won’t be cheap, either. Shop around, and don’t be afraid to ask the salespeople. If you go to a computer fair, you may also be able to get a discount.
For those who have the time and inclination, there’s a lot of free software available out there, either by downloading from the Internet or by buying ‘just the media’. Just a note to say be aware that if you pay for and download something off the Internet from, say America and you are in the UK, and they send you a back-up disc through the post, you will be charged duty by customs on it. As you have already paid for it, it is cheaper to make a back-up of your own if you have a CD re-writer – sometimes it will even fit on a floppy.
Be extremely wary of CDs on the cover of magazines offering ’1000 free hours at not a penny’s cost’ or some such – the packages make ‘adjustments’ to your operating system which make any other ISP’s connection run sluggishly or not at all. Either this is deliberate, in which case you shouldn’t deal with such people, or they’ve failed to fix this bug through at least six different revisions of the software, in which case you shouldn’t deal with these people.
A tip for newbies is to set up a webmail account with someone other than your ISP and make sure your friends know that address. There’s a good chance you’ll work your way through three or four ISPs in your first year or so, and if you don’t have a fixed email address you’ll have to irritate everyone you know by constantly sending ‘my address has changed’ messages…
Hardware
Don’t try and buy the ‘very best’ hardware out there. There are several reasons for this:
- The newest hardware is the stuff that can still have ‘problems’ (overheating, etc).
- The newest hardware also has new drivers, which won’t necessarily be tested well enough in combination with other hardware. Or even be available for all operating systems.
- It’s usually unproportionately more expensive than the previous version.
Even if you buy a complete PC which comes with everything installed, you could still have problems. Conversely, don’t get the oldest hardware or PC with the least features. When buying a complete PC, it’s cheaper to get it with a modem than add later.
What hardware you need depends on what you want your computer to be able to do. If you’re just getting something for word processing/accounts, you could easily get away with a very basic machine, such as an old 486 or Pentium model. You can often find these at computer fairs for around £50.
If at all possible, go to a showroom and try out a machine with the same/similar specifications as the one you’re thinking of buying. See exactly what it can and can’t do. Don’t be afraid to ask questions! And don’t be afraid to shop around for a better deal either.
Imagine if a computer comes ‘free’ with a printer worth, for argument’s sake, £200, a scanner worth £150, a video thingy, £50 and a digital camera worth £100 – that’s £500 worth of technology not in your main machine. Think like separates in Hi-Fi systems; one CD player could be as much as a similar model that incorporates CD and tapes or mini-disk or something. The components inside the single item will be just that little bit better. The value is singled on the main electronics not spread out over multifarious extras.
This isn’t a hard and fast rule but it’s worth bearing in mind when offers are giving away so much more than the main base model of the computer stereo or whatever – what are they trying to hide? That’s not to say that the computer makers are being dishonest at all but when your buying it may pay to look at the stand alone models and buy the extras you want separately – you get what you pay for more often than not.
Components
While the core specification of the unit (processor, disk space, etc) is important, don’t forget to look very carefully at peripherals. Here are the basics:
The following fun things, especially if you’re going to college, can make any computer a really multi-purpose machine:
- A TV Card
- A Video-capture card
- A CD burner
- All the RAM you can get
Bit for Bit or Shelf vs Assembled
What should you do: buy the computer from one of the large Music-Video-Household Appliances-Computer-Hi Fi Stores or go to a computer shop to have a system assembled for you?
The Hardware Store will offer something that costs x-amount, which features impressive amounts of impressive numbers. The price looks nice for what you get. The machine should work fine if you are looking for an non-specialised computer. Something to be used as a typewriter, some surfing and the occasional CD copy. It should also spare you any trouble by just working. The difficulties usually start when you try to add new hardware to the system. Why? Well, you have no idea what’s really inside the grey box. Yes, there’s a motherboard (the bit to which all the hardware is connected to). If you want to change the Central Processing Unit (CPU, the bit that says ‘Pentium’ or ‘Athlon’) you need to know which motherboard you are dealing with exactly. You want to add RAM to your 256 MB machine? Fine. Until you open it up to discover that all the RAM slots are taken already… Install a new driver for that Video Card? Sure. Oooops… a no-name XY-compatible card… sorry, no drivers.
That’s why the computers offered in the large chains are so cheap. The components are not necessarily the best quality or sensibly assembled. The RAM example above illustrates the point. There’s a decent amount of RAM but assembled in such a way that no further RAM can be added without having to remove some of the old. Also, RAM can differ. There are lots of different ‘flavours’ not all of which go well together with the motherboard. Mind you, they all work, but some types of RAM might slow the overall speed of the computer compared to some other type of RAM. And you have no idea what stuff will be in that machine. This practically applies to all the bits of hardware. Generally you will end up with a machine that works. Just don’t expect it to be easy to upgrade. The advantage is that you can walk into the store and buy one within 15 minutes without having to worry about much.
The small computer shop gives you the opportunity to select all the bits that go into the machine. That motherboard, so-and-so much RAM of this and that kind… This should keep you safe from any of the upgrading difficulties because you know what’s inside. Here it helps if you know what you’re buying. But even if you don’t you can explain what the machine will be used for and the guy from the shop will tailor a system to your needs. This adds flexibility and may save you some money. Go and ask more than one shop for a quote.
Do not be fooled by huge numbers in the advertisements. A Pentium IV with 1.7 GHz might be outrun by a well assembled ‘slower’ system. The following example illustrates this point:
I (still) own a Pentium I with 90 MHz (six years old), all the components selected by hand. Running a benchmark test to determine the system’s overall performance it came out better than a Pentium with 133 MHz bought straight from the shelf.
Some advice on the different kinds of components:
- CPU – Easily one of the most expensive parts of the system. Also the one that loses value rapidly. The way things are, a CPU bought at the beginning of the year is so out-dated by the beginning of the next that you will have difficulties to buy the same again. The only applications that really make use of the CPU are games. If you don’t intend to run the latest ones on the machine go for a CPU that is about three to six months old. They have enough power behind them to make any office package run smoothly. Also, don’t let anyone tell you that you need a Pentium IV (or similar) to surf the net. Just buy the cheapest one available if you want to use the machine just as a typewriter, for some surfing and the occasional CD copy.
- RAM – There is no such thing as too much RAM. Make sure that you have RAM modules as big as possible to have some open slots for later upgrading (eg, 256 MB in one module rather than 4×64 MB)
- Modem – That would depend on the telephone system you have. Consider something with a flat-rate and maybe DSL (about ten times faster than ISDN).
Often, the cheaper, ready-built systems are cheaper for one very good reason. The sound card, the graphics card, and in certain cases, even the modem, are built directly onto the motherboard. This is fine for a while, but the moment something goes wrong, or you want to upgrade the graphics card to play the latest game, you’re in big trouble. It involves digging around the insides of your computer trying to find a ‘jumper’ switch to disable the on-board graphics, which, if it exists at all, will probably be hidden under a mile of cabling and the hard drive, and will require you to completely disassemble your computer.
There’s a lot to be said for separate cards; if they break down or you just want something better, you open the top of you computer, pull the old one out, put the new one in, turn the computer back on and throw the CD that came with it into the drive. (OK, it can be a little more complicated than that, but it’s a heck of a lot easier than changing a motherboard.)
A Word about Macs and Other Things
Speed, as a general factor, takes on different forms, and is generally only helpful to those doing very intensive things on their computers: games (especially the high-end video experiences), multimedia, web editing, video capture, animation, etc. Word processing isn’t so dependent on it and Internet stuff – that is, web browsing – doesn’t require so much speed on the part of the computer itself, but more on the speed of the connection. And remember, if you are a speed junky, and you want the fastest, don’t just look at the ‘megaHertz’ speed. Set a Pentium III next to a G4 of the same clock speed (ie, 700 MHz), and the G4 will actually be quite a bit faster because of the way it’s put together. (Intel actually did the tests on this, and posted the results on their website.)
The primary use of the computer is also a consideration; if you’re doing stuff like spreadsheets and other business-y things, a PC is probably your better bet, as it has many components that are easy to swap out with newer ones if you know what you’re doing (which isn’t too difficult to learn and can, in some ways and in the long run, be cheaper). And as for OS (Operating System), if all you’re doing is business-y things, look into Linux as opposed to anything in the Microsoft family; Linux may be a bit more difficult to set up (though it isn’t too difficult to find someone who will do it for cheap or free in most places on the globe), but it is actually easier to maintain and is a more stable system. And it is open-source, which is wonderful for all that licensing stuff.
If you’re going to be doing graphics, sound, putting movies together, or any of that, a Mac or Apple of sorts really is your best option. The entire hardware set-up is made for it; you will find no other affordable desktop or laptop computer capable of the feats that a Macintosh can do with multimedia, and OS X (Apple’s newest operating system) is inspired by Unix, the uncrashable system. It can handle amazing amounts of things, and hey, if it gets confusing (not likely), there’s always still their old, familiar OS still embedded in the new one. The other advantage of a Macintosh is that it is possible to run any application on a Mac that can run in a Windows or Linux environment. There are programs available for that sort of thing, and more and more software companies are making Mac-compatible or even Mac-native versions of their programs. And a Mac will run Linux or Unix, as well.
If your only use is going to be word processing and email, you could ‘build your own’ computer. If you know what components are needed, and you know where they go and how to fit them together, going with a PC and making your own may be a very cost-effective option. Do some shopping online; look at what company makes the best of a type of hardware and how well it works with other things (other hardware, different OSes), and put it together yourself. It will also be cost-efficient down the line, when you want a better video card but don’t want to have to call a technician or replace/upgrade the whole computer. The second route is the iMac – its whole purpose is the simple stuff, like word processing and email; it’s also made to make web-connecting easy, and if you’re uneasy around computers they tend to be very friendly. They are easy, and simple, but if you learn the machine well, you can do more and more amazing things with it. You won’t be able to just swap things out as needed, but hopefully, you won’t need to for quite some time with an iMac.
As far as software is concerned, Macromedia products for web-stuff are fast becoming the standard. Adobe also has some good stuff, especially if you’re a Mac-user (or a control freak that likes to create worlds with absolute detail and efficiency); Star Office by Sun Microsystems is a good all-purpose word processor, spreadsheet, and database program (and also presentations and graphs); on a Mac, AppleWorks would be the equivalent for a good word processor/presentation/etc program.
The amount of memory you need depends both on what you’re doing and what computer you’ve got. For example, though Mac programs, including the OS, tend to run on leaner memory than PCs, multimedia and graphical work is very memory-intensive as well as processor-intensive, so if you’re doing multimedia you’ll want as much as you can squish into the machine. (Remember that different machines, even within the same type of computer, have different maximums that the machine can handle. Find out what the maximum memory is before adding memory.) Memory can also be a tricky thing because of how the OS and the hardware handle memory; some systems will handle memory very efficiently while other systems have memory management issues.
Hard drive space depends on what you’ll be doing. Again, multimedia things require a lot of space, especially if you want to keep it high-quality, whereas the normal run-of-the-mill such as email and word processing don’t take up very much space. Also, different OSes have different space needs. Again, Macs tend to be leaner with the amount of space needed by the programs, but if you’re doing multimedia, you’ll use up the space you save with the things you create.
Desktop Publishing
If you’re thinking of getting into the world of desktop publishing, Macintosh is the way to go.
Hardware
- Computer – The PowerMac (nothing older than a PowerMac 7300) will read PC or Mac disks, usually has a CD drive already installed, and is fast enough to deal with process colour. They’re pretty easy to find in the classifieds. Quite often they’ll have programs/applications on the hard drives that can come in handy and save you some bucks, too. Computer stores will make sure that it runs properly, they will also remove all the programs and most likely reformat the hard drive, so that all you’ll get is a Mac with the current system software. If you’re wanting something a little newer and more compatible with current systems, the iMacs are pretty nifty – the cheapest one runs on a 500 Mhz G3 processor with 64 MB of ram, and comes with a CD rom drive. If you get an iMac, get a USB hub to add more ports, especially if you want a scanner and a storage device.
- Storage Device – While being able to burn a CD to give to your customer looks pretty classy, it’s not very cost effective. Alternatives include zip drives or external hard drives to add more storage space. You won’t need it on an iMac, but the PowerMac has a small hard drive by today’s standards.
- Scanners – You have to ask yourself whether your work will require a scanner. If you have web access, logos and artwork can be downloaded from customer websites. If you need clip art, there are many stock photography websites available. But if you need a scanner, it’s possible to get a good one without spending a lot of money. If you have a pre-USB port computer, then you have a good chance of finding a used scanner. Check your classifieds and your local Mac store for leads.
- Graphics tablets, trackballs, and other gimmicks – While these might look interesting and fun to play with, a good mouse is the way to go. The new optical mice are extremely efficient, very precise, and can be used anywhere without needing a mouse pad. Most Macs are sold with a compact keyboard; and what is recommended is getting an extended keyboard with a number pad on the right as his keeps your hands from getting cramped.
Software
Publishing software for the Mac is pretty expensive, and most of it’s made by Adobe. Which is why if you can find a Mac in the classifieds with these programs on it, purchase it quickly! The advantage to purchasing the programs from the companies is that you can buy upgrades when they come out, for much less than the original – and if your hard drive goes down, you can reinstall with very little trouble. However, if you’re purchasing a PowerMac, the chances of your hard drive crashing before you decide to upgrade the computer are slim (not impossible – so always back up your system!)
Necessary software:
- Quark XPress – one of the best publishing program around
- Adobe Illustrator – a vector-based illustration program
- Adobe Photoshop – raster image/photo manipulation program
- Adobe Publishing Collection – This package includes Photoshop, Acrobat (for sending PDFs), Illustrator, and Pagemaker. Pagemaker is another publishing program that isn’t as versatile as Quark XPress, but is capable of getting things done. Quark used to offer a competitive upgrade from Pagemaker for around $200, and if they still do, this is ideal for the budding desktop publisher who wishes to save some money.
- Typestyler – Text shaper and effects creator
- Extensis Suitcase – Keeps your computer from slowing down when you want to have more than ten fonts in your system. It allows you to add fonts temporarily to your system and close it when they’re no longer needed. It also allows you to have several different font sets that can be opened on start-up, but aren’t in your system folder.
- A good virus program – Virex, Norton Utilities, and MacAfee all produce good virus detectors. Recent is better than used in this case. Macintosh has a much lower occurrence of viruses than the Microsoft platform computers. However, accidental viruses can develop, so make sure you have a good virus protection program installed.
If you are just starting out on web design, various magazines have been carrying full copies of Macromedia Dreamweaver v1.2 for both Mac and PC – it’s perfectly useable.
Finally, on the software front, a good trick for legally getting the latest software cheap is to search the ‘remaindered’ pile of your local computer store for a (sealed) copy of a much older version of the software you need, buy it for pennies and register it, then legitimately take up the manufacturer’s generous ‘upgrade pricing’…